“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is a common phase that we’ve all heard. It’s also a recipe for disaster. Think about it:

• Corrective maintenance is ALWAYS more expensive. An oil change in your car might set you back $50 and an hour or so, but when (not if) emulsified, contaminated oil causes your engine to seize, that’s a four (if not five) figure repair bill.
• Corrective maintenance is also ALWAYS more inconvenient. “If you don’t schedule time for maintenance, your equipment will schedule it for you.” ’nuff said.

Anything with moving parts is going to live its best life if you maintain it properly, and your air compressor has a LOT of moving parts that are CONSTANTLY under a good deal of mechanical stress. Your compressor’s manufacturer almost certainly has a published list of recommended maintenance items, with a schedule of when they should be performed. While that list is going to vary, depending on the type of compressor you have, some of the more common items include:

• Intake Filter: This is what removes environmental contamination from the air that the compressor is drawing in. When (not if) it gets dirty, your compressor works harder. That means higher power consumption, which means higher operating costs. It also means more heat is generated, which can wear machinery out WAY faster than it should.
• Lubricating Oil: If your compressor is oil lubed, that oil needs to be changed periodically. The schedule for this is always going to be a certain number of hours of operation, or a certain period of time, whichever comes first. That first one is because the amount of particulate contamination is going to be roughly proportional to the amount of time the lubricated parts spend in motion. The latter is because oil just loses some of its critical lubricating properties over time.
• Drive Equipment: The two main methods of connecting a motor to a compressor are direct drive shaft coupling, or a system of pulleys and belts. Making sure they stay aligned is critical to their operation. Depending on the nature of the drive, lubrication, tension, and physical condition are all important maintenance points as well.
• Safety (Pressure Relief) Valve: This valve releases excess pressure if the pressure switch fails and the compressor keeps running. At the very least, this keeps your operating costs in line — the higher the discharge pressure, the higher the power consumption. And, worst case, it makes sure you don’t over pressurize the system. If your receiver tank blows up, that’s a bad day.
• Receiver Tank Condensate Drain: While there are a number of automatic condensate drains available for industrial air compressors, many owners choose to manually drain condensate from the wet receiver. This should be done AT LEAST once a day, with some manufacturers recommending it more frequently than that. This is critical because standing water can corrode the tank from the inside over time. It can also lead to moisture carryover into the header, and it reduces the volume of available air storage in the tank.
• Keep Clean To Keep Cool: Air compressors generate heat, both from the friction between the moving parts, and the compression itself (Gay-Lussac’s Law states that the pressure of a given mass of gas is directly proportional to its temperature as long as the volume is constant.) Some compressors are air cooled; others are water cooled. Whichever yours is, keep the heat transfer surfaces — like the fins on the air end housing (air cooled) or fins of the heat exchanger (water cooled) — clean & free of debris to maximize the heat transfer, keeping your compressor as cool as possible.

Again, these are just some of the more common maintenance items for an air compressor. If you want yours to live its best life, keep up with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Oftentimes, maintenance records are required for warranty consideration, should something fail. If you have questions about getting the most out of your compressed air system, give me a call.

Russ Bowman, CCASS

Application Engineer
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